Best Pie Dough

There's a million recipes out there for pie dough. Just pick one you like, I'm partial to all butter pastry for flavor. Some recipes use shortening which yields a flakier crust. I don't want to use hydrogenated fats and I like the taste, so I'll stick with and always use butter.

This particular recipe is very forgiving (meaning don't worry about mistakes) and I like the proportions. I start this dough in the food processor and I've made plenty of errors.  I've over pulsed the butter so there's almost nothing left (like when they say the flour should resemble corn mean-sort of damp). I've accidentally added to much water and the dough was so soft it never firmed up overnight in the fridge (now that's the scary one). 

Most likely even if you over pulse the butter there will still be pieces left. To ease your mind the remedy is to put the flour/butter mix into the freezer until it chills before you add the water. This will help keep the remaining pieces solid. Your dough will still be delicious it just won't be quite as flakey as it would be with larger pieces, but it will work!

Accidentally adding too much water is scary. You think its completely ruined and it must be tossed! Not necessarily,  unless you've dumped a quart of water in and it's complete soup! Sometimes you add all the water a recipe calls for and your dough won't come together and it's beginning to feel like soft wet sand. Trust me, it's ok to add more water, a tablespoon at a time. I've overcompensated and added4 extra tablespoons - oops it feels really wet now. The trick: DO NOT OVER WORK YOUR DOUGH, less is more. Just push it together, flatten it out loosely wrap and refrigerate. If you work the dough it will be tough more like a cracker. Granted it won't be the flakey dough you yearn for, but it will work. In fact it will be a lot softer and easier to roll out. So be careful not to make the edges to thin. The cooked dough will be softer instead of crisp. Even if it feels crisp when you remove it from the oven there's still moisture in there (and additional from the steam coming off the cooked fruit or filling). Everyone will still love it and it will still hold up. Yes, This Has Happened to Me!

I used scraps of left over dough pushed together and then rolled to make this rustic apple tart treat! I don't always put sugar in my dough recipe. I take the liquid the apples release and rub it on the outside crust to get the brown glazed look on my tart!

One of the most important steps in making pie dough is letting the dough rest for at least 2 hours or overnight. This allows the flour to hydrate, absorbing the liquid and also to relax. Initial mixing and subsequent rolling activates the gluten. Did the dough stretch and spring back after rolling, too much water activates the gluten. Thats why pie recipes also call for cold water. Hot water activates gluten almost immediately. Notice if you wash your hands in cold water after they're covered in flour, it washes off right away (yes the fat in the butter sticks). Wash with cold water first and then warm.

Another important thing to watch is how you measure your flour. These days I weigh most everything but it's so easy to put your scoop in and pull out the flour you need with a measuring cup. Be careful not to bang the cup on the counter. That will condense the flour and you will end up adding more than you want. Remember you can always add flour but you can't take it away if you've added too much. To measure flour properly the best way is to loosen flour then spoon it into your measuring cup using a straight edge to remove the excess.

This recipe make two huge balls of dough about 12 ounces each. Each one is enough for a large rustic tart that will feel 10. You might get 3-4 balls if you're making much smaller 8 inch pies.

4 cups All Purpose I have been using King Arthur Flour
12 ounces Unsalted Butter in chunks  note-Plugra has more fat than water from other brands.
1 1/2 teaspoons coarse diamond kosher salt
1/2 cup ice water

1. Place flour in food processor and pulse 3 times to loosen.

2. Add butter pieces and pulse 3 times just to break up the butter

3. Put salt into the water and stir until dissolved. 

4. Add water while pulsing just enough for the dough to begin to form. 

5.Use the pulse option for 3 seconds One one thousand, two one thousand, three one thousand. If the dough is very dry and will not come together when you pinch it between your fingers try pulsing a couple more times or add an additional tablespoon of ice water (don't add any more salt). As long as the dough holds together when you press it with your fingers, it's not necessary to keep pulsing.

6. Divide dough into 2 pieces (or whatever your needs are) 

7. Gently form a ball or mass and wrap in plastic wrap. You can make a round flat disk about 1/2 inch thick or a square shape to fit your needs.

8. Chill for at least 2 hours. The dough can rest in the refrigerator overnight if needed the next day or frozen for up to 3 months as long as it doesn't get freezer burn it will stay fresh.

9. Roll out to desired shape and thickness. Epicurious says: The dough should be 1/8" thick and 1" wider than the pie plate. Pro Tip: stack two quarters next to the dough. That heigh is roughly equivalent to 1/8 of an inch!

Allrecipes Cooks Illustrated Serious Eats Smitten Kitchen

Have Fun & Enjoy

Holidays

In years past while working at Sarabeth's Kitchen and in Chelsea Market I would finally relax on Xmas eve and actually start to enjoy myself for the holidays (even though the holidays started at Thanksgiving I was usually so busy I had no time to enjoy myself).

Every year I look forward to making a couple of my favorite things and to eating others. One thing I look forward to every year after Christmas dinner is my Aunt Amy's Chocolate Roulade For me it's just perfect! She and my Uncle Walter always cook Christmas dinner for the family (anywhere from 12 and up). Some years guests also bring side dishes but whatever is made is always delicious, be it a roasted ham or a turkey. Last year they also made Jerusalem Artichokes instead of roasted potatoes, what a wonderful change! This year instead of a Ham, Amy made a Stuffed Pork Loin with roasted brussel sprouts, it doesn't get any better! Did I say Yummy!

As always my favorite thing to make for the holidays are Russian Tea Cakes.  When I started making them I had no idea they were a traditional Christmas cookie. They're so easy to make and freeze well, they can be formed in advance and baked as needed. I've seen some variations in the recipe but my favorite is made with ground pecans (although walnuts are traditional ground blanched almonds work too) and confectioners sugar (in a pinch you can use granulated white sugar- they will just be more crunchy, I'd recommend putting the measured granulated sugar into the blender or food processor for a couple minutes to create a finer grind~ the cookies will be equally tasty). Traditionally they're gently tossed in confectioners sugar twice. The first time is when they're hot out of the oven and then again when they cool. The first dipping forms a layer as the sugar gently melts in a way that sticks to the cookie. The second dip is because the first dip is a little sticky and the second dip keeps them looking like Snowballs which are made with walnuts. I like to use pecans and cool the cookies a little longer until they're barely slightly warm and give them only one dip in the confectionery sugar. This way they're not too sweet because they're so easy to eat they melt in your mouth (my brother calls them crack cookies and can't control his feeding frenzy!). I also prefer them a little less sweet so i can enjoy them with Hot Chocolate!

Okay now onto Brunch!!! Last year I decided to invite several friends over for a sort of open house. That way no one had to feel any pressure to leave the coziness of their PJ's but could also stop by if they felt like getting out. Only one person was coming for sure, then 3 people confirmed the night before and that morning and 2 others called 30 minutes before they came over. So it was very relaxed! How do I stay relaxed like that you ask? I know everyone wants to stop by and I usually make poached eggs to order served with a salad. The eggs will keep and I'll eat the salad all week if necessary. The pastries you ask? Well, I can always bring them into work as a treat, no one will mind, and it makes me happy to do it!

A couple days in advance I start a batch of sourdough bread, then freeze the dough for cherry lemon scones, made the dry mix for Buttermilk Biscuits, in my spare time I made the Russian Tea Cake cookie dough then formed & froze the balls, then while watching the New Years Eve festivities on TV, I finish the Schnecken Dough for my Cinnamon Buns which need to rise slowly to develop more flavor, and last but not least make my chocolate truffles.


Schnecken dough is a fabulous thing, so versatile you can make sticky buns, cinnamon buns, danish etc. I really liked this recipe because it doesn't taste dry like some dough texture can be even freshly made. A couple of times I opted for doughnut holes instead of cinnamon buns!

My favorite Chocolate Truffle recipe is by Pierre Herme. The one from the Green and Black website is similar. You can choose from many chocolate truffle recipes. Here is another, they must contain butter! But the real key to deliciousness is the chocolate you use. For the filling my favorite chocolate has been from Madagascar and the Dominican Republic or a combination of the two. I prefer my chocolate with a tangy taste. The addition of a little butter gives that velvety feel in your mouth everything else just enhances your taste bud experience. For the coating on the outside Valhrona Cocoa powder is great. If you're going to dip them in chocolate use at least a 65% I prefer a 72%. Green & Black, Callebaut, Valhrona, Scarfenberger, any high quality chocolate will do. Just use caution when melting the chocolate be gentle. The key is not to get the chocolate too warm so it will solidify again without coming out of temper.

This year I'm going to do a New Years Day Supper! It will give everyone time to recuperate and for those who didn't go out for New Years Eve it's a wonderful way to welcome in the New Year without the same level of pressure. I've never fancied going out for New Years Eve but I love to entertain and to celebrate with friends. January 1st seems ideal to me. I can stay in the night before, make phone calls all night and keep busy preparing just so I can stay up until midnight! Sounds kooky but it's really fun for me. Sometimes someone drops by to help out and that's even better (I don't have to clean up all by myself!). This year it will be at another friends house. I'm keeping it simple so I can just heat and serve everything without going crazy! What's on the menu you ask?

To Start:
Assorted Cheese & Crackers etc.
Goat Cheese filled Gougeres
Then:
Fennel, kale, Haricot Verts & Red Cabbage Salad with Asian Vinaigrette
Grilled Salmon with Fresh Thyme & Lemon
To Finish:
Russian Tea Cakes (Of Course!)
Rustic Apple Tart

Hopefully I don't misplace my phone and forget to document and take pictures as I go along so I can show you all how things turn out!

Stay Healthy, Have Fun & Enjoy!
Laurie

Simply Apple Sauce

There's so many ways to make apple sauce. It can be cooked for hours to make Apple Butter.
If you're making your own which is always best to serve with Potato Latkes I suggest buying your favorite apples and mixing them all together.

I recently used 3 gala, 1 braeburn, 1 granny smith, and 2 red delicious because that's what I had on hand. Occasionally I add butter and sugar if I want to make a compote to spread under an apple tart.

Moving along.... you can use any number of combinations Honey Crisps are great because they tend to be very sweet. If you have a food mill you don't have to peel of core your apples, just keep in mind the seeds add pectin and your sauce can have a gelatinous texture if you cook them too long.

So I peeled and cored my apples and cut them into random shapes.
Placed them all in a sauce pan with a couple of used vanilla beans (ones I squeezed the seeds out of previously - though fresh ones will yield a stronger vanilla flavor) and put about 1/2 inch of water in the bottom. (don't worry if you've added too much water as I did recently, it will eventually cook off)
Use a medium heat. It's unnecessary to cover the pot.
Just watch it and break up the pieces that hold their shape as it cooks. It should take about 20-30 minutes for all the apples to break down depending on the types you use, and for all the water to evaporate. Here's another recipe for Apple Sauce Courtesy of Serious Eats!

Potato Latkes

serves 4-6

1 large potato per person is a good measure 

4 large to 6 medium russet potatoes 

2 medium sweet or vidalia onion

4 egg whites lightly beaten (whole eggs work too but use 3 whole eggs)

4-6 Tablespoon flour or matzo meal 

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

Potatoes can be scrubbed clean. It's not necessary to peel them. But it works either way.

Grate on box grater. Wrap in a kitchen towel and squeeze out liquid, its not necessary to kill yourself while squeezing.

Grate or dice the onion and add to the potatoes.

Mix in the remaining ingredients by hand adjusting the salt and pepper.

If you don't have matzo or matzo meal use flour. Start with 2 tablespoons and add a little more as you like. I've made them with a bit of extra flour and although the mixture looked gummy they tasted great and did not exhibit any gumminess when eating the cooked latka!

Drop fork full of the potato mix into the sizzling fat and cook 2 minutes until golden brown and crisp.

I prefer a fork because they're easier to spread a bit if you like the stringy arms crispy as I do.

Fry them in a combination of butter and oil. It's best to clarify the butter first so it doesn't burn. A simple way is to melt the butter and cook it a bit until the liquid boils off. Or you can skim off the foam on top and pour the fat off the liquid remaining on the bottom of the pan.

Serve with Sour cream, creme fraiche and or fresh apple sauce!

*note the onion gives wonderful flavor and squeezing out the water helps them to be more crispy.

Also I’ve tried leaving in the water and they’re fine but appear to be more cake and soggy rather than crispy.

What makes a Latke a Latke by Serious Eats 

http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2011/12/really-simple-applesauce-recipe.html

Easy Clarified Butter in the microwave courtesy of Epicurious

http://www.epicurious.com/archive/blogs/editor/2014/11/the-easiest-way-to-make-clarified-butter.html

Heirloom Beans

My basic philosophy on cooking beans

beans beans the musical fruit
the more you eat the more you toot
the more you  toot the happier you feel
beans beans they're good for your heart
so eat your beans at every meal

Beans are amazing. Dry, they store for years, add water they expand, cook them and if they’re an heirloom variety you’re in for a treat. Cayuga Farms, in upstate NY grows several varieties but my favorite is their black beans. They’re the most flavorful black beans I’ve ever eaten. Something about them tastes like they’ve been grown with a ham hock ~ great if you’re a vegetarian who craves the flavor of pork. My next favorite is from a company called Rancho Gordo. Located in Napa, Rancho Gordo works with 4 farms in Northern California and one in Fresno. Every year the crop is different. You might not be able to buy the same beans year after year but there’s always something new and amazing to try. One of my favorites is Yellow Indian Woman. Unfortunately last years’ crop failed so I had to try some new varieties, like the dense rich creamy Borloti or the amazing Runner Cannellini ~ like no white bean you’ve ever had!

I prefer dense, creamy beans that hold their shape as opposed to starchy beans that have a texture similar to potatoes. But whatever your preference, find a cooking method that works best for you. There are several different cooking methods, one calls for cooking in the soaking liquid some call for long and slow etc., etc.  I’m only going to talk about my method because it always works and as Rancho Gordo's Heirloom Bean cookbook says (in so many words), if your cooking method works, stick with it!

Since the heirloom beans I buy come in pound bags, I tend to either soak ½ a bag of beans or the full pound. The directions below are for either amount.

1. Soak fresh beans in cold water (filtered, if possible) for at least 8 hours or overnight in a bowl that holds 4 times the volume of the beans.

Older beans may need to soak for up to 24 hours. One easy way to tell if they’re not quite ready, the skins will look all wrinkled and crinkly which means the inside hasn’t swelled enough to fill its skin.

If your beans are very dusty and dirty, rinse them thoroughly before soaking and pick through for any little stones. Be especially careful if you're cooking black beans or very small beans, as it is harder to see the stones.

2. After soaking ~ I always rinse and drain the beans (discarding the soaking liquid) through a strainer using cold water. Soaking not only drastically reduces the cooking time but helps to remove the indigestible complex sugars (oligosaccharides) from the outer coating of the beans as well as removing tannins, phytic acid and tryspin inhibitors. It’s those pesky oligosaccharides that cause abdominal issues…

Soaking beans overnight also begins the germination process which promotes enzyme release which helps to breaks down those pesky sugars. 

3. Next, put the beans into a deep, heavy-bottomed pot with a lid. I use Le Creuset: cast iron is great as is any deep heavy pot which heats slowly and evenly. Your pot should hold two and a half times the amount of beans.

4.  Cover with an inch of cold water.

5. Bring to a Boil.
   I use a variation of the “Shock Method” to cook my beans. There are several different variations on cooking beans and depending on the hardness and age of the bean I may vary my method. For the fresher Heirloom beans I prefer  the following method.

6. Remove from heat, drain in a colander and rinse in cold water (this process of boiling and then quickly stopping the cooking process is called “Shocking”)
   
   Older beans and some very hard or dense beans like aduki beans may need to be shocked a second or third time, especially if they yield a lot of surface scum.

7. Return beans to the pot, cover a second time with an inch of cold water.
   Add an approximately 1” x 2” piece of Kombu (Kombu expands to at least double when soaked with water. I use the same amount of Kombu for anywhere from 1 cup to 1 pound of beans. I suppose if I were making 5# I’d add a 1x 3 inch piece.) I believe adding the Kombu also helps to reduce gas (though this isn’t documented, it adds minerals and Umami as well).

Kombu is a type of seaweed widely used in Japanese cooking (a variety of Kombu can also be found on the Atlantic coast). It is used in the making of dashi and other Japanese broths similar to the way we use chicken stock. I don’t know where I learned this but kombu not only adds what the Japanese call umami (the other taste after sweet, salty, sour and bitter), it adds minerals that you might feel you’ve washed away by soaking or shocking. In addition it adds flavor and I also believe aids in digestion thereby once again helping to eliminate any abdominal issues. Since adopting this method of adding kombu after shocking, I’ve never had gas and none of my guests has ever complained (of intestinal distress); in fact, some have actually commented on the lack thereof.  One very important reason I stick with my tried and true method!

8. Bring beans and Kombu to a boil, cover leaving lid slightly ajar so it doesn’t boil over and reduce cooking to a slow simmer.
   You might need to add a cup or two of cold water during the cooking so keep an eye on your beans. If you notice too much scum forming, skim it off and add a little extra water if necessary.  Occasionally I’ve cooked the liquid down to almost nothing… I add an additional cup of water and continue to simmer the beans with any additional ingredients I choose to add, this will reconstitute all that thick delicious bean goo, aka “liquid gold”. You can always reduce the liquid again if you’ve added too much, so don’t worry.

I never cook my beans in anything other than water. I believe all seasoning interferes with the even cooking of the beans and toughens their skin. Fresh beans will yield their own delicious cooking liquor. About 30 minutes into the cooking process, you can add a bay leaf or other herbs if you like, but generally I add these towards the end.

Keep in mind this is just my basic cooking method. By all means experiment and follow different recipes and stick with the ones you like best.

9. Continue to simmer until almost done to your liking ~ until you think they're almost done about 45 minutes (though it depends on the size and hardness so it’s a general guideline. Don’t worry if your beans take a lot longer to cook.) When the beans are about 15 minutes from being fully cooked, now you can begin to add seasonings: a pinch or 3 of cumin is amazing in all kinds of beans, add some salt—I like Kosher, Celtic Sea Salt or Fleur de Sel. (Just don’t use an expensive finishing salt!) Start with about 1.5 teaspoons and adjust to your taste, black pepper, chili peppers, cayenne,  sautéed carrots, onions, finely minced garlic, tomato, anything you think will compliment your beans
   (There should still be liquid left in the pot that doesn't necessarily cover the beans and it will thicken as it cools.)

10. With the addition of seasoning and vegetables continue cooking the beans until they’re tender to your liking…another 15- 25 minutes. I never remove the seaweed (but you can do so at this point if you prefer) with one exception. When I’m cooking white beans I don’t always want to see bits of seaweed floating around. Before I add any seasoning to white beans I remove the seaweed. You have to check it and catch it before it starts to disintegrate. Otherwise I let it disintegrate and incorporate into the dish. It also helps to thicken the sauce.
    
    If you're going to serve the beans right away adjust the seasonings and add salt, pepper, more garlic, cumin etc. if necessary.

11. Beans are delicious with meat served on the plate, with chicken or pork roast, with an egg on top, traditionally with rice, my favorite is with short grain brown rice, or just serve them on their own.

12. If I’m going to freeze the beans and don’t know exactly how or when I want to use them I might freeze them without adding any salt or seasoning at this point. Beans tend to absorb a lot of flavors so even if you freeze when you go to use them you might find they need additional salt or pepper to brighten the flavor.  I never discard the cooking liquid unless I’m using the beans in a salad where I wouldn’t want to incorporate any of this liquid gold.
    
    Most Rancho Gordo beans cook up within an hour. I’ve navigated better websites but just keep clicking on “Products” until you see a link on the left for Heirloom Beans. It’s worth suffering the frustrating website.

You can also order direct from Cayuga Farms or find them at the Union Square Farmers Market in NYC. Have Fun & Enjoy!

Rancho Gordo
1924 Yajome Street
Napa, CA 94559
707-259-1935

Cayuga Pure Organics
18 Banks Road
Brooktondale, NY 14817
607-793-0085